Aluminum is corrosion-resistant, not maintenance-free. Left alone, bare aluminum develops a chalky oxide haze — harmless structurally, but dull. A simple wash routine keeps the metal bright and, more importantly, flushes the road salt that causes cosmetic pitting.
- 01
Rinse first
Flush dust, salt, and grit with a hose or low-pressure rinse before any scrubbing — dry debris scratches. If you use a pressure washer, keep the nozzle at least 6–8 inches off the surface and away from hubs, brakes, and wiring.
- 02
Wash with mild soap
A few drops of car-wash or dish soap in warm water, a soft sponge or microfiber, straight even strokes. Rinse each section as you go to prevent water spots. Skip acid and alkaline cleaners — they streak and dull aluminum.
- 03
Remove oxidation
For the chalky white haze on bare aluminum: a fine non-woven pad (600-grit Scotch-Brite class), light pressure, back-and-forth — never swirls. Rinse and dry with microfiber. The metallic luster returns.
- 04
Rinse between washes
A two-minute hose-down after winter or coastal towing does more for the finish than any polish. Do not let wet leaves or debris sit on the deck, and store under cover when you can.
- How often should I deep-clean?
- Rinse after every few uses; deep-clean 3–4 times a year. On salted roads, rinse more often — salt sitting on aluminum is what causes cosmetic pitting.
- Can I pressure-wash the welds?
- Yes, at a respectful distance (6+ inches). The welds are structural TIG/MIG beads, not caulk — water does not hurt them. The care is for the finish, not the joint.